Nights on Tracks

I have travelled around the UK many times, but now it’s time to see something different besides city centres like London or Manchester. Away from the crowded shopping streets, a completely different, unspoilt world awaits, just a train ride away from London. After all, who doesn’t dream of watching deer from the train window? In this article, I’ll take you on my week-long tour through magical Scotland.

First of all, it should be mentioned that although the Scottish rail network is relatively small, you can reach all the major destinations by train. The following map shows all the stops I made on my journey. In total, I covered around 1.500 km by rail.

Night 1: London – Edinburgh
Full of excitement, I board the green 11:45 p.m. night train at London Euston. Already from the outside, it’s clear that this is one of the most luxurious night trains in Europe, which also has a proper dining car attached.

What’s special is that the Caledonian Sleeper even offers cabins with double beds, a real rarity! Unfortunately, this luxury comes at a price, which is why I decide to spend the night in the seating carriage. It’s certainly not nearly as comfortable, but I can use my valid Interrail Pass without paying a surcharge. Good to know: Seats can be reserved free of charge via online customer service. After the tickets have been checked, the lights dimmed and the sleeping mask provided put on, it’s time to call it a night. After a short but restful night, I see the signs for „Edinburgh Waverley“ on the platform. Time to say goodbye to the Caledonian Sleeper for now.

Day 1: Edinburgh
Just a few steps outside the station building, you feel like you’re in a Harry Potter film. And this feeling persists the more you explore the city. It is particularly evident at the merch store on colourful Victoria Street, which sells magic wands, fluffy owls and scarves. Edinburgh Castle and Calton Hill, which offers a great view of the city, are also particularly worth seeing.

Day 2: Edinburgh – Inverness
After a night in a hotel, it’s time to head north on the Highland Main Line with ScotRail. This route takes me via Perth to Inverness and offers stunning scenery, making the 3½-hour journey fly by. Inverness is a popular starting point when visiting the Highlands. The city can be explored quickly by foot. I also discover a highly recommended pub by the water, where I can end the evening in a cosy atmosphere.

Day 3: Inverness – Loch Ness – Fort William
Although there are still a few train connections from Inverness, e.g. to Kyle of Lochalsh, unfortunately there are none to Loch Ness, which is why I have to take the bus there. However, the 45-minute journey to Urquhart Castle passes quickly, so I am able to spend the day looking out for the world-famous monster, albeit without success. From here, the bus continues to Fort William, a dreamy town near the highest mountain in the UK.

Day 4: Fort William – Glenfinnan – Mallaig
Fort William is the ideal starting point for one of the most famous train routes in the Highlands: The West Highland Line, which crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct and is therefore a must-see for every Harry Potter fan. Although the Jacobite Steam Train, also known as the Hogwarts Express, runs on this route, it is significantly more expensive than the ScotRail trains. In addition, you cannot get off en route and the Interrail Pass is not valid, which is why this train is no option for me. The journey from Fort William to Glenfinnan takes just 30 minutes. From the station, it is a 20-minute walk to the viewpoint with a great view of the viaduct.

But continuing to Mallaig is also highly recommended if you don’t want to miss out on the picture-perfect Highlands. Mallaig is a cute little coastal town with a wide selection of appealing seafood restaurants. I can personally recommend „The Crab & Creel“. The return journey from Mallaig to Fort William in the evening takes almost 1 hour and 30 minutes.

Day 5: Fort William
If you’re planning to go hiking in the Highlands, Fort William is the ideal base to see Ben Nevis, which is the highest mountain in the UK, with 1.345 meters above sea level. This is reason enough for me to put on my hiking boots and climb Cow Hill, which offers a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains.

Day 6: Fort William – Glasgow
The route to Glasgow, which is also on the West Highland Line, was my absolute highlight of the trip in terms of the views. For hours, I can’t get enough of the changing landscape between hills, lakes, and green-brown meadows. I am also lucky enough to see a herd of deer from the train window.

The train also stops at Corrour, a station in the middle of nowhere. This station cannot be reached by car, as the nearest public road is many kilometers away. So it’s all the better that Corrour Station House also serves as a lovingly furnished and cozy restaurant (Zugpost, 2023).

Once in Glasgow, there is still some time left for a sightseeing tour of the city. It is particularly known for its street art scene and its university, which may has served as inspiration for Hogwarts in Harry Potter. After dinner, I make my way to Glasgow Central Station to embark on the last leg of my journey.

Night 7: Glasgow – London
At 11:15 p.m., it’s time: The Caledonian Sleeper leaves Glasgow heading south. Once again, I spend the night in the seating car. Lost in thought about the many new impressions of the last few days, I finally fall asleep. I wake up as the train travels through the suburbs of London. At 7:15 a.m., my journey ends at London Euston station. Would I do this week-long trip again? Definitely, anytime!

How to book tickets:
Since train travel in Great Britain tends to be rather expensive, the Interrail ticket is a good option here. With the One Country Pass for the UK (205€ youth / 273€ adults), you can for example use all trains there for 5 days. If you are traveling by train through the Channel Tunnel, the Interrail Global Pass is also worthwhile. If you prefer to book your tickets individually in Scotland, you can do so via ScotRail. Tickets for the mentioned night train can be found on the Caledonian Sleeper website.

Source:

Zugpost (2023, 30. April). Sehnsuchtsorte: Corrour, Schottland. Retrieved on 22.08.2025, from https://zugpost.org/sehnsuchtsorte-corrour/