Nights on Tracks

Are you looking for an adventure far away from home? Don’t want to overstretch your travel budget while still immersing yourself in a completely different world? Then hop on the night train with the grey carriages, which will take you from Georgia to neighbouring Armenia in 10 hours and 35 minutes. You can find all the useful information about this journey in this article!

Before starting your journey, it is advisable to buy provisions in Tbilisi, as the overnight train to Yerevan does not have a dining car. However, apart from a small food court inside the station, there is no opportunity to eat in the building. As soon as you board the train, where the conductor checks your ticket and passport, you will realise that this is one of the more modern trains. To be honest, I must admit I didn’t expect this. The carriage numbers are displayed digitally on the outside. The toilets inside are also of a modern standard with a sensor for washing hands and an electronic display on the door to indicate whether the toilet is occupied. There is also a shower in the toilet, which actually works, which in my experience is not always the case on night trains, even if a washing facility is available. Meanwhile, a towel is thankfully provided in the couchette.

After entering the cosily heated cabin, the next positive surprise awaits: I immediately notice the small comfort kit with slippers, toothbrush and toothpaste, soap and a comb. There are also free bottles of water in the compartment. Speaking of water: free cold and hot water for tea is also provided in the corridor on the train. Incidentally, my cabin in carriage eight is designed for four people, as the lower bench seat on each side can be folded down to form a bed and one bunk on each side can be folded down from above. There is also a large table, working sockets and two USB chargers for each bed. Bed linen and pillows are also provided. The latter are located above the door in the compartment. The only thing that lets me down is the supposedly functioning Wi-Fi. But that’s not too bad, as my book is only a reach into my rucksack away.

After inspecting the carriage, the train sets off on time at 08.20 pm towards Armenia. On leaving the station in Tbilisi, make sure to look out of the window so as not to miss the beautiful view over the entire illuminated city with over 1.1 million inhabitants. Shortly afterwards, the train attendant comes round again to explain with her hands and feet that the customs check on the Georgian side will take place at 10.00 pm. Her only English word is „passport“, but her explanation is still well received. By then, my fellow passenger and I are chatting about travelling. He is currently on a longer trip through Europe. I am told that his grandfather and father worked on the railway and that he has been born into travelling on rails. If you read this: It was great meeting and talking to you Ari.

Then it is time for the first border control, which takes place on the Georgian side. All the passengers have to get off the train for this procedure. Luckily the control is completed quickly. The free-roaming stray dogs at the station and the rather cold temperatures prompt me to quickly return with my stamped passport to my cosy couchette.

Nevertheless, the train doesn’t move on until around 11.15 pm. I use this interruption to make up my bed, because it’s easier when the train is not shaking. I lie down at around 11.30 pm, my cabin neighbour does the same and falls asleep straight away. But the silence is short-lived, as 10 minutes later my passport and the cabin itself are scrutinised once again, this time by the Armenian authorities. After another stamp, we are greeted with a short „Welcome“. At 00.40 am, the train starts moving again. For me this means earplugs in, lights out, bedtime! I am woken up by the conductor one minute before arrival with the words „Yerevan“. I scramble out of my upper berth in no time at all and pack up my things as the train comes to a halt right on time at 06.55 am.

The best way to get into the city is by metro, which is located directly below the station. Please note that this can only be paid for in cash, at least at the ticket office, and the signposted exchange office at the station is still closed when the night train arrives, so it is better to change money beforehand. One journey costs 100 AMD, the equivalent of 23 cents. Alternatively, there is also the option of using the Bolt transport app to get from A to B, although in my case only cash payment could be selected. As a starting point for a city tour, I would recommend the Republic Square, which also has a metro stop. I also suggest a visit to the Blue Mosque and the Cascade Complex for a view over the city.

This journey can be booked online at the South Caucasus Railway (SCR) website: www.ukzhd.am. There you will find different comfort classes to choose from. The price for my bed in the couchette (modernized coach category) was 22.435 AMD (converted 51.80€) by booking five days before departure. After the successful purchase you will receive your ticket via email. Alternatively, you can also purchase a ticket at the counter in Tbilisi.

Tip: Do you want to extend your journey? I started my trip in Kutaisi, a Georgian city in the west of the country. From there, a train departing at 11.55 am took me to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, in 5 hours 22 minutes. At least in theory, as a delay of 42 minutes prolonged the scenic and varied journey.

Tickets for this journey through Georgia can be booked at https://tre.ge/en or via the TKT.GE app in English and cost 10 GEL (approx. 3.45€). The ticket will be sent to you via email once you have completed your purchase and can also be added to the Wallet app on your mobile phone.

Don’t want to miss any more of my journeys on (night) trains? Then feel free to follow nightsontracks on Instagram to always stay up to date: https://www.instagram.com/nightsontracks/