Nights on Tracks

Have you always dreamed of seeing the natural spectacle of the Northern Lights with your own eyes, being pulled through dreamlike snowy landscapes by a husky team or skiing in Lapland? Then head for the far north! The best way to do this is by night train through Scandinavia, as you will miss out on the breathtaking beauty of nature if you travel by plane. In this article, I would like to show you a way to cross the snow-covered Arctic Circle in Sweden comfortably on a heated train and get off at the world’s northernmost railway station in Norway.

The starting point of the 18h 32min journey through two countries is Stockholm Central, the main railway station of Sweden’s capital, which has a population of almost 1 million. There, the Vy Nattåg with the number 94 leaves the station at 06.08 pm heading north. The first stop is Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, where experience has shown that a number of travellers board the train before gradually heading into the sheer endless expanse of Sweden. At this point, the landscape starts to change more and more from Stockholm’s urban canyons to forests and lakes. In winter in particular, it is important to note that there are hardly any hours of sunshine in this region, which is why this train journey is ideal for a cosy lie-in. Speaking of sleeping: there are three comfort categories on this night train: The cheapest is the seat in the seating carriage. In the current winter months, this is available from as little as 60€, but as usual on European night trains, the light in the carriage stays on all night, so don’t forget your sleeping mask! If you want extra comfort for the long route, it’s better to invest a few extra Swedish krona. You can get a bed in a shared sleeping compartment for around 120€ or a private 2^nd class sleeping compartment for around 270€.

The intermediate solution between comfort and being easy on the wallet is the couchette coach for six people, in which a berth is available starting with 70€. Please note that prices vary depending on occupancy. I recommend booking as early as possible. Trains can be fully booked, especially at the beginning of January. Tip: For the best value, I recommend travelling with the Interrail Pass, as you only have to pay a surcharge depending on the comfort category. Student discounts are also offered by the Swedish railway company SJ.

It should also be noted that each person in the couchette and sleeper car receives a 0.5 litre tetrapack of water from the railway company as a welcome gift. Furthermore, the culinary offering on board is impressive: in addition to the famous Swedish meatballs (Köttbullar), other hot and cold dishes as well as cold refreshments are available in the on-board dining car.

The morning caffeine kick and a small breakfast are also available in the dining car for an extra charge. If you set your alarm clock shortly before 07.00 am and head to the dining car, you can watch the crossing of the Arctic Circle while sipping coffee. Because shortly after departure from Murjek station at 06.59 am, the time has come: the crossing of the Arctic Circle! Afterwards it’s time to lie down again and watch the world pass by the train window from the comfort of your bed, because it still takes 2 hours 15 minutes until the train reaches Kiruna. This town has made a name for itself as the world’s largest active iron ore mining town. The mine can easily be visited on a guided tour including transfer for 40€ (prior booking required). Discounts are available for students and senior citizens (kirunalapland, n.d.-a).

Some ski fans also leave the train here to ski the four slopes of the small ski area not far from the city. A day pass costs 14€ for adults and ski or snowboard equipment, including boots, can be hired locally for around 42€ (kirunalapland, n.d.-b). However, these winter sport enthusiasts miss out on the most beautiful part of the entire route: the onward journey towards Narvik. From the window, you can often catch a glimpse of the seemingly endless trains, with iron ore wagons attached, which travel from Kiruna to Narvik to load the goods onto ships in the harbour.

The train leaves Kiruna at 09.31 am and arrives at Abisko Turiststation 1h 38min later. Abisko is a small town with around 100 inhabitants, located just next to the Norwegian border. There are numerous activities you can do there: ice climbing, ice fishing, husky sliding, snowshoeing and hunting for the Northern Lights. Skiing fans also get their money’s worth here. But I definitely recommend staying put and marvelling at the fantastic route past picturesque mountains and frozen lakes. Simply pick a window on the right-hand side of the train and enjoy. The national border of Norway is crossed in a tunnel in which the passing point is marked by the two national flags on the wall.

After the train jerks a good distance downhill, it arrives: the northernmost railway station in the world. Velkommen til Narvik! After arriving at 12.40 pm, the region offers numerous possibilities: enjoy a husky safari, take the gondola up Narvik’s mountain (Narvikfjellet) to ski or simply enjoy the view, visit the WW2 museum or savour a delicious fish in a local restaurant.

Also worth knowing: Although Narvik is located in Norway, there is no railway connection on the Norwegian side. At the moment it is only possible to travel as far as Bodø, where you can solely continue by bus or rental car. However, there are considerations and studies to complete the missing rails and thus make Narvik accessible by train from Oslo within Norway (Augusteijn, 2022).

Tickets for the Stockholm – Narvik journey can be booked on the SJ website. The Interrail Pass can also be added here under „Add SJ Prio/travel card“ in the personal details.

Tip: Narvik is also a very good starting point for a trip to the Lofoten Islands. There is a direct bus connection to the end of the island chain to the town of Å i Lofoten. The journey with several stops takes 444 minutes. Alternatively, rental cars can also be hired in Narvik.

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Sources:

Augusteijn, N. (2022, March 03). Northern Norway Line back on the cards. Retrieved on 13.12.2023 from https://www.railtech.com/infrastructure/2022/03/03/northern-norway-line-back-on-the-cards/?gdpr=accept

kirunalapland (n.d.-a). LKAB’s Visitor Centre. Retrieved on 13.12.2023 from https://kirunalapland.se/en/activities/lkabs-visitor-centre/

kirunalapland (n.d.-b). Luossavaarabacken: Kiruna’s central slope for skiing and snowboarding. Best viewpoint in the city! Retrieved on 13.12.2023 from https://kirunalapland.se/en/luossavaarabacken/